[Pigging by Wilfrid: August 31, 2015]
I don't even want to tell you how far I go back with Fergus Henderson's cooking. Well over twenty years: after all, his flagship St John near Smithfield's celebrated twenty years in business last year.
And how far back do I go with this neighborhood? Sorting bankruptcy notices for the London Gazette in its Holborn Viaduct office as a summer vacation job. Eating curries in a greasy spoon cafe under the viaduct. My first Thai meal in a gastropub just up the street.